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Picnic Hikaru YukariMisakiAyane

 

Tell us about your first cosplay experience. Who, what, when, where, and how did it go?

It was the fall of 2000 at Anime Iowa, and I wore Hikaru Shidou from Magic Knight Rayearth. It’s definitely in my top 3 of most treasured cosplay experiences. I didn't even have a wig, but I had handmade socks. The response was overwhelming. I was bouncing and having a blast wearing my one costume as long as I dared. I met so many fellow MKR fans and interesting people. It was such a magical experience compared to school life. I didn't want the experience to end. When real life set in as I left the con, I was still happy that I got to have such an amazing time.

What changes have you seen in the scene since you started cosplaying?

The accessibility within the scene has exploded. The anime itself, reference images, other cosplayers, cosplay help, etc. is so much easier to locate. This, of course, leads to more fans and cosplayers which to me means the scene is a little less personal. I started in the days when there were all these close-knit groups all over the country that all knew each other. Today it seems more of an individualistic or “few close friends” type of thing. But I've been seeing a lot more of the group thing recently, and it’s been making me happy.

There's also this strange thing going on with character choice. With very few exceptions, I've almost always chosen a character as an expression of my fandom. There's this trend leaning towards looking like your character without knowing them or searching out from strangers cool designs. It’s not a lot of people, and there's nothing wrong with it, but it’s just confusing to me. My method of choosing is so simple. I just ask myself, "Who's my favorite right now?"

When and how did you learn to sew?

My brother bought me a sewing machine when I was 16. I’d had it for about a year, but I never used it. After my first convention, I decided to give it a real shot and sew a costume. My mother taught me the rudimentary basics. After her advice, it was solely trial and error with commercial patterns. I took to it rather well right away so I never had any professional training. Eventually, I started loading up on books, and that has made my life so much easier. Basic/Advanced sewing techniques, pattern drafting, pattern draping, and manipulating fabric books have helped me learn so much. I even started a sewing Live Journal where friends and I discuss sewing when I'm not procrastinating. Eventually, I'd like to go to fashion school to help perfect my sewing techniques. Although I learned without them, I do recommend taking classes if you can find convenient classes in your area.

Which type of costume presents the biggest challenge: anime, video game, or original design?

Anime generally tends to be simpler since they have to draw it over and over. Fabric choices are up to you since cell shading is so uniform. Original design is iffy. It can be very hard with the multitude of sketches and hours of designing. Once you get into the final sewing project though, you have so much more freedom to make alterations to the design that it makes up for the initial difficulty. Video games, however, have all those insane, gravity defying, impossible, incomprehensible designs with the beautiful cg textured fabrics. They set all these boundaries that you have to work out yourself.

How did you become enamored of the Gothic Lolita style?

It grew on me slowly. At first, I thought the style was very intriguing and collected the Gothic and Lolita Bibles to ogle and follow the style. My first attempt at the style was a handmade reproduction of one of Metamorphose's sailor dresses. After wearing the dress for the first time, I fell in love. The style is not only as gorgeous as the post war New Look fashion I adore, but it holds that sense of empowerment and uniqueness that cosplay has.

My next attempt was the black wedding dress reproduction. I wanted something a little more over-the-top and impractical. I fell even deeper in love. That's when I started doing more eccentric pieces combining EGL, cosplay, and couture. Take my John Deere loli and red plaid wedding dress for example. Unfortunately, many of my designs have not come to fruition because of my being diagnosed with GERD. It took months to diagnose it, months to get better, and months to figure out a working style that didn't stress me out and cause relapses of pain. Soon though!!

Middle of the interview!! Time for dance party!! *dances jig*

Most times, EGL = ruffles.

Do you have any tips on creating fanciful ruffles and/or working with store bought trim?

I feel like I've ruffled miles of ruffles. Between the stuff that gets posted here and the stuff I sell, it’s insane.

I think the first thing to do is to experiment with your ruffle ratios. You don't want to just cut an arbitrary length of fabric and gather it on. You want to measure where the ruffle goes and multiply it. My favorite ratio is 2.5:1. So let’s say you want to gather fabric to something that’s 30 cm long. Multiply 30 by 2.5 and you get the length of ruffle fabric that you need to cut.

2:1 will give you a light ruffle that gets the job done without being gimpy. Good for fabric you want to conserve or for 45-inch wide fabric. Also good for thick fabric.

3:1 will make thicker, deeper ruffles that look quite fab. Uses a lot of fabric but is good for longer ruffles and thinner fabric.

4:1 FLUFFERNUGEN!!! I rarely use this ratio because it’s really only suited for sheers and silks because of the bulk. If you're working with fine fabric and have a machine that can stab through bulk, it can be fun.

As for store bought trims, they're pretty and are great time savers. Try to stick to higher quality trims such as cotton eyelet, Cluny, or Venice laces. Stay away from synthetic laces if you have the money for the higher quality stuff.

Which costume in your collection has been your favorite so far and why?

That’s an incredibly tough question. After spending so many hours meticulously working away, they kind of become children. I'm torn between my Freya and my plaid wedding dress, but I think I'm going to go with plaid wedding. It was passion from the start. A quick sketch in a lined notebook of an idea to use up old bolts fabric suddenly led to 20 straight hours of sewing. The photo shoot for it was the first time Eron and I clicked as a team and understood how to work with each other. It was generally a very fun shoot getting kids tagging to pose with us and running around in the sand/on rocks with crashing waves. It’s also easily the most well received of my original designs and is special to me with my passion for underground fashion and music.

 

Does having a professional photographer at your disposal affect your cosplay?

Since Eron’s photos come out so clear and beautiful it ups the ante on perfection. Those flaws stick out so much easier. It’s made me reeeeeal good at hiding safety pins as well! XD  I've become more personally attached to characters because of how much we research together for locations and moods for the shoots. He'll soon have an MFA in photography which gives me a different perspective from what I used to have. I make different character choices for different reasons, and my gothic lolita sketches recently have reflected his fine art style of shooting.

From working with said photographer, what can you share about posing and presentation to help others make the most of their pictures?

There's such a multitude of tips!

Know your photographer. You'll be comfortable with them, and they'll be comfortable with you. That slight relaxation shows.

Be aware. This goes for both the cosplayer and the photographer. As the cosplayer, you should be aware of your posing, costume, facial expressions, hair, etc. The photographer may be looking at you constantly, but when taking pictures, it can be hard to remember the small details. As the photographer, you want to be aware of the small things in the composition. You have the great pose and great angle down. But is there a tree giving them an afro? The horizon or a building line dissecting their head? A tree branch poking them in an odd spot? Are they missing a leg?

Posing. Know your character. Your photos will look much more stellar and natural if you're acting. Watching the series with your photographer just before the shoot can help worlds with natural posing for your character. If your character is a fighter, make sure you're tensed up like you're about to strike, not sort of lax and unfocused. Relax and have a good time if the character is fluffy and cute. Let your photographer direct you. Eron directs me a lot. Occasionally, he'll direct me into these incredibly awkward poses. He'll just tell me trust him so I do, and it turns out fab because often, what will look the best isn't the most natural.

And finally, don't squint and always look at the camera!

Imagine this situation in the week leading up to a convention: your sewing machine blows up, the fabric of your costume frays incessantly, all the members of skit group drop out, and your cat has eaten your wig. What would keep you from going off the deep end?

Music. Easily. There are other activities I use to keep my stress level in check (Animal Crossing and knitting for example), but music wins. I grew up in a recording studio so music has always been a part of my life. Even right now, it’s almost 3 am, but our latest discovery (The Subways) is keeping me going strong. Music has so much power. It can keep you going late into the night on that last minute costume or soothe you when you're too stressed. There's always a style of music that hits you just the right way.

If you could make only one more costume ever, what would it be?

Mikako from Gokinjo Monogatari. I'm very fond of her character and being an aspiring fashion designer myself helps me relate. I love her character's personality, and she even dates a photographer like I do! Her final project/show dress is beautiful and fits right in with the couture styles I love. Unfortunately, I'm a little too busy to tackle anything too big, but eventually, I'd like to make it a side project.

Does cosplay mesh well with your career path?

It does and it doesn't. I've learned so much from both that’s helped each other but they hinder each other as well. Cosplay can distract a lot from the more career oriented things I should be doing. It’s a great stress relief too when the career oriented things aren't going so well. Taking a day off to sew something from my current favorite anime is so relaxing. 


most photos by Eron RxWLoli Pajamas Wedding 2 Valentine Sakura

Cosplay itself meshes well with fashion design. You have to analyze the design and note how it should be constructed then draft the patterns yourself since most likely the commercial patterns don't exist for the article of clothing you want. The whole process lines up well. All the way down to the wardrobe styling shoots I do. I have to dress the models and make sure they generally look good. What cosplayer hasn't had to help dress a friend and make sure they look good for pics? Cosplay photo shoots have taught me a lot about posing creativity, fixing wardrobe malfunctions, and has given me experience with being on set that made my first styling shoots easier.

I've already started doing wardrobe stylist jobs with my collection of imported and handmade gothic lolita clothing to implement cosplay into my style. I figure if something means a lot to me I shouldn't keep it separate from my other passions. I'd like to do a series of photos styling anime/manga/video game cosplay into more street/couture clothing styles as well. I have a few ideas I can't wait to start trying out.

Here’s your space for additional comments and to dispel rumors.

I have this weird problem with people thinking I don't like them. To be fair, it can be easy to be confused with me being mildly forgetful and antisocial. At times even Daitenshi, whom Eron and I love to death, will be overlooked when we get too busy. So most likely, I in fact like you. If for some reason you feel too neglected, just ask, and I'll be honest.

Also this is going up the month of my birthday! We'll be holding a gothic lolita tea party and photo shoot in LA on the 11th in honor of my birthday. Hosted by yours truly with my usual photographer Eron Rauch doing the shoot. There's no strict dress code so don't be shy! Email me for more info if you're interested.

Oh yeah, and remember....BEWARE OF THE BAGELS!!

see more of Mistress Mel's costumes here

Mel you are true to the core, with just a bit of wackiness to keep things interesting. May you never completely grow up, or out of cosplay because you continue to inspire many with your stylishness and eclectic West-coast/Mid-West sensibility - the best of both worlds I like to think. Anyway, here's to your continued success, strengthened relationships, and new endeavors.

Garry

 

 
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